Day trip to Colonia from Buenos Aires
Across the Rio de la Plata
The Ferry Ride
Depending on how busy the ferry is, ticket prices may vary. However, on average they are available for about $40 USD in the main cabin, and $70 USD in business class each way. Truthfully, business class was much more comfortable as there was a dedicated cabin, but the ride is relatively short so really it doesn’t matter much.
The ferry departed from Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires, and arrives in the Port of Colonia in roughly 2 hours. Since Buenos Aires to Colonia is an international crossing, it is important to mention that passports are necessary to make the trip. Don’t leave them behind or boarding will be denied.
Walking the Rio de la Plata
Since immigration was processed for both exiting Argentina and entering Uruguay on departure, getting off the ferry was a breeze. After exiting the port, the cobblestone road to the left led along the Rio de la Plata towards the historic city center. Undoubtedly, the fusion of Spanish, Portuguese and post-colonial architectural styles were evident at every turn. It was a city best experienced simply by wandering.
Some of the streets along the way were lined with rows of trees that created beautiful canopies. It was worth the pit stop to sit on the banks of the Rio de la Plata and take in the stunning views of Argentina on the other side of the river. This was especially true because the weather was fantastic being that January was summer in that part of the world.
Historic City Center
One of the most notable features of Colonia’s historic center was the number of single story houses. Double and multiple level houses were rare to find. From the bay, only the lighthouse and church were seen towering over the small quaint houses.
Many small cobblestone streets connected large plazas and squares. Each had its own unique character. Furthermore, the large stone walls and wooden trellised roofs that made up the construction of almost all of the buildings were the uniting feature of the whole city center.
In addition, the large stone city gates told stories of Colonia’s turbulent history of occupation by both the Spanish and Portuguese. Wandering the alleys felt like walking through the 17th century. Definitely a blast from the past.
High Tea Time
After spending some time wandering the streets of old Colonia, a good way to wind down a bit is to stop for high tea at one of the numerous riverfront cafes. There was something magical about sitting in an outdoor cafe, sipping on an iced tea, and taking in the views of the Rio de la Plata.
One of the more well known places to do this is a cafe called Queriendote, however unfortunately they were closed when I visited. Instead, I stumbled into another cafe (truthfully don’t remember the name of it). Ultimately the effect was the same. Sitting there with my tea and toast, it felt like the rest of the world was miles away and nothing mattered but that moment.
Lunch at Los Frolitos
On recommendation from my friend (who never steers me wrong), my lunch stop was at Los Frolitos. Nothing more than a hole in the wall with some tables outside, these guys made the most mind blowing sandwich ever.
Called a chivito, this sandwich had a little bit of everything imaginable. It was two sides of a bun with a breaded meat filet, slab of ham, cheese, fried egg, lettuce, tomato, corn, peas, mustard, ketchup and mayo inside. They even gave it to me inside a plastic bag because it was prone to exploding. It is in fact the national sandwich of Uruguay.
Generally it is rare for me to finish my food. However, despite the sheer magnitude of this sandwich, I happily devoured every bite. Hands down one of the best sandwiches ever.
Leaving Colonia
Following a day of exploring Colonia (and truthfully that’s all the time needed) it was time to head back to the port. My ferry back to Buenos Aires was at about 5 pm. It is notable to mention that the line to check in and clear immigration was long. Therefore, remember to get there early, especially in the late afternoon.
One more notable mention is upon arrival to Puerto Maderos in Buenos Aires. Taxi outside who for people to disembark charge upwards of 4 times the normal price. Do not take them. Walk across the street and hail a city metered cab. They charge per a meter rather than a fixed price, but are less likely to “take you for a ride”.
Final Notes
There was something magical about walking through history in Colonia. It was undoubtedly one of the most well spent afternoon in which to sample Uruguay. There was something serene and relaxing about spending a day meandering with nowhere to rush to. For a city girl like me, that was a rare occurrence meant to be savored.
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